Central Tallinn, Estonia.

Tallinn has a compact historic centre which is a bit of a tourist trap (replete with ‘Ye Olde Dungeon’ etc), but I take a day or so the get set for the Baltic ride.

Pierre Chocolaterie Cafe in Tallinn. Makers of the finest cake in the history of cake making. Groovy atmosphere in a little lane-way with ‘Teddybears’ Picnic’ on the gramophone. Perfect.

This is the afore mentioned BEST CAKE I’VE EATEN ON THIS TRIP, no less. Infused with champagne and brandy and lashings of chocolate. Tallinn, Estonia.

Crossing the Estonia/Latvia border on a quiet country road. Plenty of hard-packed gravel roads to pick your way through to avoid traffic.

Stayed at a farm in Raskumi in southern Latvia, where the food was outrageously good.

Latvian soup. Very nice.

These redefined the taste of fresh strawberries.

In southern Latvia found a lot of tertiary country roads without much traffic and a bit of gravel here and there.

Disappointingly Ergli turned out to be a rather lovely little town. No fun.

Bike in the middle of a national park in Latvia. A night of camping then blast on down the road.

Soviet water tower turned wren nest. Quite a few of these about the place.

Video of guy on bike in Latvia

Jekabpils Latvia: Yet another in a long string of Struve Geodetic Arc markers (over my right shoulder).

Struve deserves a shout out at this juncture. I’ve passed so many of the markers that its best to try and understand the achievement in proving Newton right (again) regarding the shape of the earth.

One thing all of the Baltic states do with some aplomb is a jolly good graveyard.

Raivis pulled up and invited me to tour his farm and have a nice strong coffee. Can’t refuse that really.

His is a great place perfectly positioned right along the riverside. He is doing a lot of work to bring the buildings out from the undergrowth and uncover the historic gems along the way.

Raivis has a charming chunk of the Latvian river-side countryside and is renovating the numerous mills and other buildings, uncovering all manner of historic artifact in the process.

Soviet memorabilia

Alpaca.

The most beautiful bus stop in the world prize goes to Uue-Kariste, Latvia.

Regrettably the camp food is not getting any better; deteriorating if anything. This is something I prepared earlier. I like to call it ‘Instant mash with bits of salami in it’.

Crossing the border into Lithuania

The wren’s have occupied every turret of this ruin for nesting.

Guy on a bike.

Coming into the Lithuanian capital of Vilnius. Population of approximately half a million so it takes a bit of getting into – bike paths appearing and disappearing etc.

Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, is an absolute cracker of a city. The historical central area has a stonking great cathedral, and a tower, a maze of cobblestones, and cafes, restaurants and pubs aplenty. All very trendy for the well-healed.

For reasons that defy any adequate explanation, the afternoon blissful quiet with my cool pint of local Pilsener is most rudely punctured by a band a marauding Hare Krishnas. So I rode all this way just to endure the Vilnius chapter of the bongo and finger cymbal society?

*I suspect the ageing vacuous looking tourists signed up for a city tour and then someone started belting the bongos.

Some essential reading for all you lovers of things piano accordion out there.

The magnificently tired Rinno Hotel in Vilnius old town throws up a delightful surprise. Sometimes you walk into a hotel bathroom and have to give thanks to Lord Krishna!!

Let’s check it out:

• Live in Present Moment: Focus on the journey rather than just the end goal. OK.
• Let Go of Outcomes: You have control over your actions but no control over the results. Accept disruptions gracefully. Yep.
• Control the Senses: Travelling exposes you to temptations. Krishna advises to avoid the three gates of hell: lust, anger, and greed, Got it.

Bath-time.